Summary: Hamburgers, macaroni, and meatloaf. Traditional working-class fare or signs of a populist revolution? Although the ascendancy of the cupcake may look like a democratic swelling within the ranks of highbrow cuisine, a recent study by Josée Johnston and Shyon Baumann (American Journal of Sociology, July 2007) suggests gourmet food is still all about taste and distinction. Food critics have simply become more “omnivorous”—well-versed in many different cuisines—by showcasing the more obscure traits of everyday foods only a refined palette can discern. What makes a roadside diner or homemade casserole gourmet is their authenticity and exoticism. However, what counts as exotic or authentic depends on the expertise of someone with first-class taste and loads of frequent flier miles.

UPDATE: This Discovery was published in our Winter 2008 issue.